Winter Prep Checklist for Your Snowblower
Do it in one weekend and skip the big repair bill
Every year, the first big storm hits Western New York, and the same thing happens. Folks drag the snowblower out of the garage, pull the cord, and nothing. Or it starts, hits a chunk of ice, and the augers stop turning. Then they’re paying a shop in the worst week of the year, when everybody’s waiting in line.
Here’s the math. Shops around here charge about $75 an hour for snowblower work. A couple of hours and you’re past $150 before anybody’s bought a single part. Most of what I’m about to show you costs a few dollars and one weekend.
I spent 36 years as a volunteer firefighter, and I’ll tell you what that taught me. Most emergencies come from small things somebody skipped. A snowblower is no different.
You don’t need fancy tools or any experience with engines. This works for the machines I see most around here: Craftsman, Toro, Cub Cadet, Ariens, and YardMax. Every model is a little different, so keep your owner’s manual handy. If you’ve lost it, look for the model number on the machine and look it up on the maker’s website.
Before You Touch Anything: Safety First
Turn the engine off and let it cool.
Pull the spark plug wire off the plug. That way it can’t start by accident while your hands are near the augers.
Work outside or with the garage door wide open. Gas fumes and exhaust are no joke.
Never stick your hand in the chute to clear a clog. Use a stick or the clearing tool that came with your machine. Keep one next to the snowblower all winter.
Saturday Morning: Fuel (about 30 minutes)
Why fresh fuel matters: Gas doesn’t last. Left in a tank or a can for months, it breaks down and gums up the carburetor, which is the part that mixes fuel and air so the engine can run. A gummed-up carburetor is one of the most common reasons a snowblower won’t start, and the fix means paying that $75 an hour. Fresh gas is the cheapest insurance you can buy.
Do this:
If there’s gas left over from last winter, don’t use it. Take it to your town’s hazardous waste drop-off. Don’t pour it on the ground or down a drain.
Wipe out the tank if it looks dirty, and look over the fuel line for cracks or soft spots.
Fill up with fresh gas from the station. If you can find gas without ethanol, even better, because ethanol breaks down faster. Check your manual for the right fuel.
If the machine’s going to sit between storms, add fuel stabilizer, following the directions on the bottle.
Store your gas can in a cool spot, away from heat and anything with a pilot light or flame.
Saturday Afternoon: Shear Pins and the Moving Parts (about 45 minutes)
Why shear pins matter: On many two-stage machines, the auger shaft is held in place by small metal pins called shear pins. They’re built to snap on purpose. When the augers hit something hard, like a chunk of ice, a frozen newspaper, or a rock hidden under the snow, the pin breaks first and protects the gearbox. The gearbox is the expensive part. Think of it like a fuse in your house. It’s cheap, and it takes the hit so everything else is protected.
Do this:
Check your manual to see if your machine has shear pins. Many two-stage machines do. Some smaller single-stage models don’t. If yours has them, the manual will show you where they are.
Look at each pin. Make sure none are bent, cracked, or missing.
Replace any damaged ones with the exact pins made for your model. Don’t swap in a regular bolt from the hardware store. A harder bolt won’t snap when it should, and then the gearbox takes the hit instead.
Buy a few spare pins now and keep them in a coffee can or zip bag near the snowblower. When one snaps in the middle of a storm, you’ll have a replacement in your hand, not a trip to the store.
Put a light coat of grease on the auger shaft where the pins sit. That keeps them from rusting in place and makes them easy to swap later.
Check the scraper bar and skid shoes on the bottom of the machine. If they’re worn down, replace them.
Look at the tires and give them air if they’re soft.
Look over the belts. Cracks, fraying, or a glazed, shiny look mean it’s time for a new one.
Sunday: Oil, Spark Plug, and a Test Run (about 45 minutes)
Change the oil if your engine’s a four-stroke. Use the type your manual calls for. Old oil can thicken up in the cold, and that makes the engine hard to start.
Check the spark plug. If it looks black, oily, or worn, put in a new one. They’re cheap.
Reconnect the spark plug wire.
Do a test run outside. Start it up, let it warm for a few minutes, and engage the augers. Listen for odd noises and make sure the chute turns and the controls work.
Check that the lights and handle controls work, if your machine has them.
Your Quick Checklist
Old gas gone, fresh gas in
Stabilizer added if it’ll sit between storms
Shear pins checked, damaged ones replaced (if your machine has them)
Spare shear pins stored near the machine
Scraper bar, skid shoes, tires, and belts checked
Oil changed and spark plug checked
Test run done
Clearing tool stored next to the machine
If you finish this list before the first storm, you’ve done more than most people do. And if you get stuck on any step, check your manual or call a local shop. Better to ask than to guess.
— Pop